Natural and Chemical Dyeing Practices in Bhairavgarh Batik: a Study of Process, Environmental Impact, and Sustainable Possibilities.

Abstract

Batik printing is a significant textile craft tradition in India, with the Bhairavgarh cluster of Madhya Pradesh being one of its prominent centres. Historically, batik fabric dyeing in Bhairavgarh relied on natural dyes derived from plant and mineral sources such as indigo, madder root, turmeric, myrobalan, and fermented iron solutions. These practices were embedded within local knowledge systems and maintained a relatively sustainable relationship with the surrounding environment. However, over time, there has been a noticeable shift towards the extensive use of chemical dyes due to their cost-effectiveness, wide colour range, easy availability, and improved colour fastness. While chemical dyes have enhanced production efficiency and market adaptability, their prolonged and unregulated use has raised serious environmental and health concerns. The discharge of dye effluents into nearby water bodies has adversely affected river ecosystems, agricultural practices, and local water resources, while also posing potential risks to skin health and the occupational health of artisans involved in the dyeing process. This paper examines the dyeing processes involved in Bhairavgarh batik with a comparative focus on natural and chemical dyes. Through a review of existing literature and field-based observations, the study highlights the environmental implications of chemical dyeing and explores the current marginal practice of natural dyeing within the cluster. The research aims to reintroduce and systematically integrate natural dyes in batik practice as a sustainable alternative that aligns with ecological responsibility and craft preservation. The study contributes to ongoing discussions on sustainable textile practices by situating traditional knowledge within contemporary production contexts